Nakano back streets: where to eat, drink and have coffee beyond the Broadway crowds
Plenty of guides to Nakano cover Nakano Broadway, Mandarake and the covered Sunmall shopping street. I want to talk about the back streets instead: the small lanes behind the main arcade, where the bars, kitchens and cafes are. It can feel like a bit much the first time, but it is easy, it is cheap, and it is the part of Nakano I would take a friend to.
Nakano is about 5 minutes from Shinjuku on the JR Chuo Line (around ¥200). Walk through the covered Sunmall arcade toward Nakano Broadway, then turn into the side streets: craft beer bars, yakitori, seafood, sushi, pizza, Spanish-style izakaya and old-school coffee shops, all close together and mostly cheap. It is a lively, slightly gritty neighbourhood and I find it completely safe. Skip Wednesdays, when several places close.
Why the back streets
Foreign visitors are already coming to Nakano, and not only for anime. It feels different from Ginza, Shinjuku's towers or Omotesando and Harajuku. It is closer to an ordinary Japanese shopping district, with real shops, locals out for dinner, and a lot of life. Mandarake and the otaku shops are why many people arrive, but what Nakano really is, to me, is an old, lived-in, slightly underground neighbourhood where eating and drinking are the main events. Nakano is often described as having food alleys full of izakaya; it is true.
The back streets need a bit of courage the first time, because the signs are in Japanese and the doors are small. But the whole area works like a Japanese kitchen food court: you can have craft beer, yakitori, fresh fish, sushi or pizza within a few steps, and it is cheaper than central Tokyo. Of course some places are less good than others. That is part of exploring.
What you will see
Craft beer. Several small bars pour Japanese craft beer, and some, like this one, have English signs and a daily lineup on the wall. If you like beer, this is an easy place to try small Japanese breweries.
Izakaya with a twist. I passed a Spanish-style izakaya (Ajiro, an ajillo and wine bar), and there were more ajillo (garlic oil) dishes on menus here than I expected. Alongside them you will see yakitori, seafood counters, sushi and a pizza place with an OPEN paddle at the door.
Cheap noodles and set meals. Oil noodles (abura soba), set-meal places and Chinese restaurants are everywhere, many with a free larger portion on offer.
Look for the kanji 喫煙可 (“smoking allowed”) or a cigarette symbol on the door. Some small restaurants and coffee shops in Japan still allow smoking inside, and in these streets that includes some Chinese restaurants and kissaten. If you do not want smoke, pick a place without that sign.
A simple way to do it
Morning: start at LOU (opens at 9:00 on weekdays). Early afternoon: walk through the Sunmall arcade, a covered street about 225 m long that leads from the station to Nakano Broadway (around five minutes' walk), and stop at Iyoshi Cola when it opens at 13:00. Evening: go into the side streets, pick a bar or izakaya with a menu you can read from the door (many have photos), and eat small plates. Nakano Broadway's shops are generally open from about noon to 8 pm, and some close on Wednesdays.
Practical tips
Wednesdays are slow. LOU is closed, Iyoshi Cola is closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and some Broadway shops close. Payment varies. Iyoshi Cola is cashless only, while small bars and restaurants may prefer cash, so carry both. Ordering: menus with photos are common, and pointing is fine. Safety: I find these streets completely safe; the usual sense applies late at night. The area is crowded in the evening and at weekends, so earlier is calmer.
If Nakano's otaku side interests you more, our Otome Road guide covers a similar scene in Ikebukuro, and the All Seasons Coffee story is another small-cafe visit on the same Chuo/Yamanote side of town.
Common questions
How do I get to Nakano from Shinjuku?
Take the JR Chuo Line from Shinjuku to Nakano, about 5 minutes and around ¥200. The Tozai Line also stops at Nakano.
Is Nakano safe at night?
In my experience it is completely safe. It is old and a bit rough around the edges, with crowded bars and lanes, but not dangerous. The usual city sense applies late at night.
Is it cheaper to eat in Nakano than in Shinjuku?
Generally yes. The back streets have many small izakaya, set-meal places and noodle shops with low prices, though some places are better than others.
Do Nakano restaurants allow smoking?
Some small restaurants and coffee shops do. Look for the kanji for “smoking allowed” or a cigarette symbol at the entrance.
What is closed on Wednesdays in Nakano?
LOU cafe is closed on Wednesdays and Iyoshi Cola's Nakano shop is closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Some shops in Nakano Broadway also close on Wednesdays.
Do I need to go to Nakano Broadway?
No, but it is only a short walk from the station through the Sunmall arcade. Mandarake and anime shops are there; this guide focuses on the back streets instead.